Raw Living Foods Lifestyle Training - chiDiet.net

Worm Castings add Enzymes to the Soil

by KK Fowlkes of Wheatgrasskits.com

Plants cannot be strong without the soil medium in which they grow.  I was made aware of this some years ago when I worked for about a year at a sprouting company.  While there we sprouted some sunflower seeds.  The sprouts grew tall and pretty and we tried to market them to restaurants that had salad bars.  As it turned out, the sprouts would go bad and become slimy in the refrigerator in a 3 or 4 days.  At the same time, I was traveling back and forth to a large city and noticed sunflower greens in a local health food store.  They were white stemmed, had dark green leaves amd were much healthier than the sprouts I had grown. I found that they were grown in soil rather than in a hydroponics solution.  I was amazed to take them home and find that they lasted as much as 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Later, when I studied with Ann Wigmore, I learned her method of growing in soil.  She had a worm bin and let her worms compost all of the used wheatgrass, sunflower, and buckwheat mats.  In all her simplicity, Ann Wigmore had great knowledge about nature and soil and its importance in supplying plants with the correct 'food' for them to build enzyme rich substances that would sustain their life as a healthy plant.

Last fall, a vermicomposter from Louisiana was trying to get me to introduce castings and worms to our customers who grow wheatgrass.  He sent me samples to try and told me to use 20 percent castings mixed in with my growing soil, which I did.  [I was amazed to find that I got about 20 to 25 percent more grass from the same tray.]  I was growing barley and had been getting 36 ounces of grass per flat.  After using the worm castings,  I harvested 44 ounces of grass and the same amount of soil, sprinkled with azomite, and 3 cups barley seed).  Actually, I did this same experiment about 3 times and got the same result each time.  We are excited to finally be able to introduce these products to our website.

I went back to my stand-by, Edward Howell, to find out what he had to say about enzymes in the soil and how they relate to enzymes in the plant.  I am quoting him directly here as he says it so much better that I ever could:  (Enzyme Nutrition, by Edward Howell pp.157-159).

Scientists are now measuring the value of a soil by the amount of enzymes it contains.  These enzyme values have a direct relationship to the quality of our nutrition and health. It is known that the operation of microorganisms in the soil is very important to the growth of plants.  The world is commencing to awaken to the importance of enzymes in the life of the soil, that is to say, the biological activity of the soil.  A plant, like an animal, needs enzymes to prosper. 

In connection with the enrichment of the soil, the enzyme contributions of earthworms should not be ignored.  Charles Darwin realized the part worms have played in building soil and wrote a treatise on the subject.  In the act of burrowing through the earth, worms engulf the soil, and extract usable materials as food.  After passing through the length of the worm, the remainder is expelled in the form of casts which contain a valuable contribution of worm enzyme excretions.  The earthworms, like all other animals, continually take in enzymes and eliminate them in their excretions, giving the soil an endowment of free enzymes.  Soil rich in worm casts is sought after by some horticulturists for the cultivation of favored plants.  It makes high-grade plant food.

Worms not only add enzymes to the soil but also loosen it, permitting water and air deeper access.

We must consume the best quality foods grown from healthy soils.  As pointed out, use of castings increased yield up to 25 percent.  Dr. Howell points out that the nutritional value of the entire crop is improved if grown in soil where there is significant worm activity. 

Remember, worm castings are biologically safe and contain no pathogens. Answers about earthworms from the New Farm Answer Team:

Does the "manure" from earthworms have to meet the same criteria as other manures?

No. According to the NOSB Compost Task Force, earthworm castings are 'finely divided organic material produced non-thermophilically due to interactions between aerobic microorganisms and earthworms, as organic material passes through the earthworm gut.' It makes no sense that earthworm castings would have to meet the same requirements as manure.

- from Wheatgrasskits.com

Sara's gardening tip

"When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the  ground easily, it’s a valuable plant."

- Sara Thomson

Lonely gardeners in Hodunk

The Lonely Gardeners of Hodunk: http://www.tonyakay.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=5995&sid=f4d138b6a134edccaa7b8d418589ec15  [Thanks to Renata Dorner for sharing this with us.]

Harvesting rainwater

By Melissa Breyer, Producer, Care2 Green Living.

When I was young we used to hightail it outside, clanging pots in hand, at the first whisper of a summer storm. It was our firm belief that shampooing with rainwater imbued our hair with magic. Girlhood diversions aside, the truth is that harvesting rainwater may be more important than we realize; here we give you the rundown on collecting rain and why it’s so important.

SIMPLE SOLUTION:  According to the UN, 20 percent of the world's population in 30 countries face water shortages. This number is expected to rise dramatically by 2025. Although water is something that many of us take for granted, 1.2 billion people don’t have access to safe drinking water. And consider this: While the average American individual uses between 100 and 176 gallons each day, the average African family uses only 5 gallons.

Fresh water from underground aquifers is finite—there is only so much of it, and because of pollution and the rate at which it is being extracted…well, the word “crisis” comes to mind for many. However, rainwater is considered a renewable natural resource. And while domestic potable water collection requires effort, energy, and chemicals for purification and transport, rainwater conserves natural resources, is free of chemicals, and is delivered without challenging the environment.

The easiest way to collect rainwater is with rain barrels, and harvested rainwater is great for your lawn, garden and houseplants. Especially in the summer months, many of us have intense heat accentuated with brief yet heavy summer storms—with a dry ground much of that water simply runs off.

By setting a rain barrel beneath your downspout you'll have a free supply of water for your landscaping. Wooden barrels provide rustic charm, but plastic ones are more widely available. You can buy ready-made rain barrels (check with your water company or municipality, first, as many provide them free of charge or at a reduced price). Alternatively, there are many websites that provide instructions on how to build your own. You may not be ready to make the commitment to a more permanent system—but you can always start out by placing plain buckets underneath your downspouts…just to get your feet wet.
Use a lid to minimize evaporation and to keep out debris and mosquitoes. A hose fitting will give you easy access to the collected water, and a diverter lets you switch back to the downspout, or another barrel, should the rain barrel get full. Don't expect to be able to use a hose directly from your rain barrel; gravity probably won't give enough pressure to get water through it. Instead, use the hose fitting to conveniently fill a watering can or slow delivery containers.

If you have a garden or tool shed, heck, even a playhouse, why not attach a gutter and barrel there as well? If you have a collecting (or “catchment”) area of 1,000 square feet and an average annual rainfall of 20 inches, you have the potential to collect 24,000 gallons of water annually—the equivalent to the water 13 African families use in a year.

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Hi there,

I really appreciate this post. Just one thought ... you write:

• "And while domestic potable water collection requires effort, energy, and chemicals for purification and transport, rainwater conserves natural resources, is free of chemicals, and is delivered without challenging the environment."

Rain water is not chemical-free, nor has it been for many years now. Think "acid rain." We CAN capture and conserve water. We cannot reasonably assert the condition of that water without examining the water itself.

Also, plastic barrels themselves pollute the captured water--severely, in some cases.

Best,
Elchanan

[This article came from http://serenityspaces.org/. Thanks, Dorit!]

[Personally, I trust rainwater more than city water. Plastizer contamination is also dependent upon the exposure time. - James]

Growing your own greens

From Dr. Flora:

The neatest things about the living foods is that the baby greens are so easy to grow and you don't need a garden outside, just some cafeteria trays and 1" of dirt and organic seeds and perhaps a grow light if you have no windows because you don't need direct sunlight, even though that's a plus, just indirect. 

That's why Dr. Wigmore began her Institute in Boston, to prove that it was easy to get well and stay well in a cesspool of pollution.  I couldn't walk outside in Boston in sandals because of the acid rain or dew which would burn my feet, like they did in Puerto Rico when I walked on the sand (residue from Agent Orange).

Sprouting challenges

I have been sprouting wheat grass with no problem.  I am now trying to sprout barley and spelt and I have not had the results like the wheat.  They get this little nub, but after four days I'm looking for the long root, and it just isn't there.  I'm wondering if I need to sak it longer initially, (Idid about 8 hours) or if the grain I have is dead and I need to look  elsewhere for my sources. 

One last thing, I wonder if you have any tips on keeping birds out of your wheatgrass if you are growing it outside?  I am thinking about mosquito netting, but if you have experience with this, let me know.  Thank you for your help and availablity. 

Lorraine Williams
----------------------------

Re: birds. I string monofilament fishing line around the area. It keeps them from flying around it. Works good on my boat, too.

Re: other sprouts. I’m no expert; I’d suggest The Sprouting Book from www.chidiet.com/books.htm. I did, however, watch the staff making trays at Creative Health, and they made up the trays the same as wheatgrass. We did, however, soak seeds for 24 hours before planting. I would think that if they sprout at all, they’re OK.

Jim Carey

Grow your own sprouts

Growing Your Own Sprouts - from chiDiet.com, Lesson 4

Sprouts are a fantastic food for all seasons and all places - you don't need half an acre, a backyard, a patio, or even a window box. Just as you give the best of everything to your baby, so does the plant yield the best of everything to its seed. When that seed begins to sprout it develops fantastic nutrients. They become the most assimilable vitamins in God's Kingdom because they come wrapped with all the minerals, enzymes and still-unknown factors so necessary to the full utilization of our food

Almost any seed, grain or legume can be sprouted. Seeds offer a concentrated storehouse of energy and nutrients, held in reserve, ready to burst forth when a suitable environment is offered. You can store seeds, grains and legumes in a freezer and they will still sprout.

During the sprouting process vitamins, minerals, proteins and enzymes are produced at an incredible rate. Vitamin content triples, at least. In wheat, vitamins, B-complex and C increase by 600 percent.

Most seeds will yield between 6 and 10 times their weight in sprouts. Sprouts are by far the most economical and nutritious food you can eat. Be sure that the seeds or grains have not been chemically treated. If they have been, the germination rate will drop.

Basically, care of sprouts means keeping them moist and providing adequate aeration and drainage.

SOAKING
Put seeds in a jar and cover with a screen. Secure the screen with a rubber band or place seeds in a sprout bag and put in bowl. Fill up a jar or bowl about half-way with lukewarm water, preferably filtered water. Seeds are soaked according to their size. Check chart for soaking time.

DRAINING
After the seeds have been soaked, drain off the water. Rinse sprouts with fresh water, pour off. If using bags, dip the whole bag in water and hang up to drain. Now let sprouts rest by tilting the jar upside down, at a 45 degree angle, making sure that the opening allows air in and is not completely covered up by sprouts. A dish rack is useful for this. Keep out of direct sunlight for the first few days.

RINSING
To rinse, stand the jar upright. Fill the jar with water. As it fills, you will see a ring of foam rise to the top. Let the water overflow and carry the foam away. The foam contains the waste products of the sprouts. Rinse and drain well two or three times a day. Use cool water. Rinsing is basically making sure sprouts are kept moist, without getting moldy.

HARVESTING OF SPROUTS
The outside layers of seeds (hulls) are removed in a process called 'Harvesting'.

Alfalfa, radish, red clover and mung respond well to harvesting. Fenugreek, sunflower, peas, grains and lentils don't need it.

Place sprouts in a bowl or in the sink and fill with water. The hulls will rise to the surface and sink to the bottom. Scoop off the hulls from the surface, reach underneath the sprouts and pick them out of the water. Place the sprouts back in a jar and drain off excess water.

Alfalfa, radish and cabbage sprouts need to be set in indirect sunlight after five days, so that they can start manufacturing chlorophyll. Sprouts are most tender when young. They refrigerate well.

Vegan organic farming

"Veganics" is Vegan Organic farming. Here's how to be a purist: http://www.friendsofanimals.org/actionline/fall-2004/veganics.html

Organic gardening - heirloom seeds

So you have nice organic soil built up in your garden. But what kind of seeds are you using? For Heirloom Seeds, visit http://www.rareseeds.com/.

Maintaining a healthy organic lawn

There's no need to water more than an inch per week. Over-watering is unhealthy for lawns and invites lawn disease. Placing a tuna can under the sprinkler will help gauge water depth. Water early in the morning to avoid excessive evaporation from midday sun. Taller grass has deeper roots, causing the plants to need less watering. Set mower height to 3 inches and cut grass when it reaches 4.5 inches. Sharpen mower blades. Dull blades harm grass blades, inviting disease. Return grass clippings to the lawn. Grass mulching decreases weeds up to 60% and is a natural fertilizer. Avoid cheap grass seed, as it typically has weed seeds mixed in. Get good quality perennial rye and fescue seeds. Each time you mow, try alternating your pattern and path. This prevents the soil from compacting. Soil biota helps provide a stable healthy lawn. If your lawn has been treated chemically, it will take a couple of years for the soil microorganisms to rebuild.